jueves, julio 20, 2006

English Update. Emergency in Nanga Parbat



JOSE ANTONIO DELGADO FOUND DEAD NEAR CAMP 3

We sadly inform our readers that on Saturday July 22 at 3:30am EST Jose Antonio Delgado was found dead between Camp 4 and Camp 3, only 400 meters away from the tent thought to be his (approximately 7,100 meters of altitude). He was found in the open by rescuers from the Pakistan Adventour Tours.

Nanga Parbat wished to keep this mountaineer, and in return it has given us a beautiful legacy: the nobility of a man whose struggle and perseverance have been embedded forever in the hearts of all Venezuelans.

Please read on at the end of this update for previous day-by-day coverage of the events of the last week.

Saturday July 22 - summary of the events

At 11am the team of climbers, friends, and family that coordinated the rescue efforts from Venezuela gave a press conference providing further details of the events leading up to the discovery of Jose Antonio Delgado's body. Here we present a timeline and a description of the events as presented by his team:

On Tuesday July 11 at 2:00pm Jose Antonio Delgado reaches the summit of Nanga Parbat (8,125mts). Soon after he initiates his return, strong winds erase his tracks and Jose Antonio has difficulty reaching camp 4. He is forced to bivouac at 7,800mts.

On Wednesday July 12 Jose Antonio reaches camp 4 with the help of his teammate Edgar Guariguata, who can see him from base camp through a telescope. Jose Antonio indicates that he wants to hydrate and rest before starting his climb down to camp 3.

The next radio communication occurred 2 days later on Saturday July 15. He explains that a snow storm buried him. He is exhausted with severe pain in his feet. He asks to be rescued, and his teammate initiates the rescue efforts.

On Monday July 17 Jose Antonio sends his last dispatch to base camp. His tent was completely destroyed. He states that he cannot wait and needs to try to reach camp 3 on his own. He asks Edgar say goodbye to his wife Frida and children.

On Saturday July 22, a Pakistani rescue team reaches the body of Jose Antonio Delgado at approximately 7,100mts.




Thank you for visiting the official website of the Venezuelan Expedition Nanga Parbat 2006. The expedition is led by the Venezuelan elite climber Jose Antonio Delgado. This English update is provided by request of the international media and organizations interested in following the events that transpired after the successful summit attempt by Jose Antonio on Wednesday July 12. (See below for the latest update)

Summary of the expedition:

Jose Antonio Delgado and Edgar Guariguata left Venezuela for Pakistan on June 4 with the hope of reaching the base camp of Nanga Parbat by June 10. Jose Antonio Delgado is one of the most celebrated Latin American climbers, and has successfully climbed Cho Oyu (8201m), Shishapangma Central (8008m), Gasherbrum II (8035m) y el Everest (8850m). Due to a number of administrative delays, the climbers finally reached base camp on June 25. The team spent the next several days climbing to camp 2 and 3 and organizing a summit attempt. Unfortunately the weather deteriorated, delaying most summit attempts. Only a Bulgarian expedition was able to successfully reach the summit soon after. Jose Antonio waited patiently for a window of good weather to launch his attempt. Edgar, who had suffered severe stomach problems, stayed at base camp to coordinate Jose Antonio’s efforts. The window of good weather finally arrived by the middle of the week of July 10 and Jose Antonio reached the summit on Wednesday July 12. Unfortunately, a storm closed rapidly, forcing Jose Antonio to make an emergency bivouac between the summit and camp 4. Contacts between Jose Antonio and base camp have diminished since that time, and as of Thursday July 20 Jose Antonio is believed to be without food or water somewhere between Camp 4 and Camp 3. A rescue attempt by a team of elite Pakistani porters has been launched, and base camp has not been able to talk to Jose Antonio for several days, although base camp has received what appear to be radio transitions from Jose Antonio, increasing the hope that the Venezuelan climber may be alive and waiting for rescuers.

Detailed timeline of the events.

Wednesday July 12: Jose Antonio reaches the summit of Nanga Parbat and initiates a climb back to camp 4.

Wednesday July 12 PM. A storm engulfs the summit of Nanga Parbat, trapping the Venezuelan climber somewhere between the summit and camp 4. A Japanese team at base camp is transmitting the information through satellite telephones.

Thursday July 13. Jose Antonio reaches camp 4 with help from base camp, who was watching him through a telescope.

Sunday July 16. Jose Antonio has been without food or water for 2 days. The weather has prevented the rescue teams and a helicopter from trying to reach him. Jose Antonio decides to leave camp 4 and try to reach camp 3 on his own. This is the last verbal dispatch from Jose Antonio to base camp.

Tuesday July 17. A Pakistani air force helicopter reaches base camp with 6 elite high altitude climbers. The climbers immediately begin their climb towards camp 3.

We learn that there may be food and water at camp 3, and if Jose Antonio is able to reach camp 3 he has a great chance of survival.

Jose Antonio’s wife, Frida Ayala, leaves Venezuela for Pakistan in order to help coordinate the rescue efforts from base camp.

Wednesday July 18. The Pakistani team is at camp 2 waiting for the weather to improve. As soon as the weather permits, the team will begin their efforts to reach camp 3 and hopefully find Jose Antonio.

Thursday July 19. The Pakistani rescue team is on its way to camp 3. The weather improves. Base camp receives what seems to be a communication attempt from Jose Antonio.

New! Friday July 20. UPDATE!
Edgar Guariguata informs from base camp that the weather is clear this morning and the high altutude military helicopter initiated an aerial search for José Antonio Delgado. Soon we will know the exact location of the rescue team.

HELICOPTER SEES TENT AT CAMP 3

The Pakistani helicopter was able to see a tent at camp 3, as well as the rescue team approaching. The helicopter returned to base camp and it is now nighttime in Pakistan. The good weather is expected to continue.


TENT AT CAMP 3 BELONGS TO JOSE ANTONIO DELGADO.

Edgard Guariguata, teammate of Jose Antonio and coordinator of the rescue efforts from base camp, confirmed after reviewing the photographs taken by the helicopter's crew that the tent at camp 3 belongs to Jose Antonio. The rescue team continues to approach camp 3. We hope that Jose Antonio is found at camp 3, otherwise the rescue team will continue towards camp 4.

RESCUE TEAM REACHES CAMP 3!

The team of Pakistani climbers reached camp 3. However, the tent identified by the helicopter's crew is located at a higher altitude and the team members are resting before continuing their efforts. The helicopter is expected to resume its mission at daybreak and will attempt to drop provisions to the rescue team, which will facilitate the rescue operations if Jose Antonio is found. Carlos Calderas, a Venezuelan MD and experienced climber, is expected to arrive at base camp soon. Frida Ayala, Jose Antonio's wife, had to stay in Islamabad because of logistical constrains.

New! Saturday July 21.

CLEAR SKIES IN NANGA PARBAT ALLOWS RESCUERS TO APPRACH THE TENT

The clear sky in Pakistan mountains allowed the rescuers to continue their way to the tent. Edgar Guariguata believes this is Jose Antonio Delgado’s tent.

Base Camp informed us that the distance between Camp 4 and Camp 3 is not of significant technical difficulty. This increases the possibility that Jose Antonio could have walked down without major physical problems. The Head of the Mountain Pakistani Agency informed us that the tent is located where the expeditions usually stop on their way down from Nanga Parbat and leave excess food provisions for those who still remain on the mountain. It is understood that the Bulgarian and the Korean expeditions that reached the top of the mountain before Jose Antonio left some food there. Even though it is unconfirmed information, it is possible that Jose Antonio may have found some food that would allow him to survive for the past several days.

We were also informed that during the first hours of the morning, new radio signals were received at Base Camp. Even though it is difficult to confirm that they are from Jose Antonio’s uncharged radio, we hope the climber is still trying to send life signals.

We do not want to raise false expectations. The above information is to respond to all of you supporting Jose Antonio. We wanted to convey the information sent from Base Camp and analyzed by the team of experts coordinating the rescue both in Pakistan and in Venezuela. Nevertheless, we must remember that in rescue expeditions of this nature there are many variables and extreme levels of difficulty -- speculation can only be confirmed as the rescue develops. Let’s maintain calm, and pull together in our hope for the best possible result.

It is not believed that the helicopter will fly again from Base Camp until it receives confirmation from the rescue teams that Jose Antonio has been found. In that case, it will fly towards him to airlift him to a safe destination.

It is also confirmed that Jose Antonio’s wife Frida Ayala is located in Islamabad, together with Venezuelan and Pakistani agents. It is estimated that doctor and climber Carlos Calderas will be reaching Base Camp during the next hours.

Jose Antonio: keep it up!

Translation courtesy of Real Time, C.A.



JOSE ANTONIO DELGADO FOUND DEAD CLOSE TO CAMP 3

We sadly inform our readers that on Saturday July 22 at 3:30am EST Jose Antonio Delgado was found dead between Camp 4 and Camp 3, only 400 meters away from the tent thought to be his (approximately 7,100 meters of altitude). He was found in the open by rescuers from the Pakistan Adventour Tours.

Nanga Parbat wished to keep this mountaineer, and in return it has given us a beautiful legacy: the nobility of a man whose struggle and perseverance have been embedded forever in the hearts of all Venezuelans.

Translation courtesy of Real Time, C.A., Caracas, Venezuela


We will continue to update our site as often as possible.

Source: This site is updated and maintained by Explorart Films and Ascenso from information provided directly from base camp.

8 Comments:

Blogger ReyTovar said...

Animo Jose, desde Mexico y con la velita a la Guadalupe prendida esperamos tu pronto regreso con tu familia. Dios te Bendiga!!!

5:25 PM  
Anonymous Anónimo said...

VENEZUELA TODA REZA POR TI, TE ESTAMOS ESPERANDO. ANIMO

10:48 PM  
Anonymous Anabell Novoa said...

Animo Jose...desde Denver una venezolana del Centro excursionista tarbesiano que ha celebrado de corazon todas tus cumbres...Dios te bendiga!!! Los montaneros son los seres del retorno!!!!

10:56 PM  
Anonymous Anónimo said...

Queridos Venezolanos que estamos una vez mas, unidos por nuestras raices, alcemos nuestras miradas al cielo e invoquemos la voluntad divina, para que Dios lo ayude y si asi lo desea estte Jose Antonio Delgado junto a sus seres queridos y luego con nosotros demos gracias a Dios por haberlo devuelto....
La paz del Se~nor este contigo...
Amen....
Virgen de Coromoto, alli estaremos en Guanare dandote gracias por devuelvenos a esa belleza de figura que tanto amamos
Luzmarina Espinoza
Caracas Venezuela

10:44 AM  
Anonymous Anónimo said...

Tu tocayo Simón José Antonio de la Santísima Trinidad Bolívar Palacios y Blanco escribió: "Si la naturaleza se opone, lucharemos contra ella y haremos que nos obedezca". Fuerza compatriota que esta montaña también la escalarás.

Carlos Latuff
California, USA

5:27 AM  
Anonymous Anónimo said...

Rest in Peace. Nanga Parbat is one of the greates places in the world to remin for eternity. With love we go to the mountains some are lost to the Gods of the mountains but they will allways be loved by the gods and the mountains.

I hope all of you close find peace and love with the mountains despit the harsh side they some time show.

David Walter Falt
Geneva Switzerland

2:24 PM  
Blogger Joaquin davila said...

Familia de José Antonio Delgado,

En nombre de mi familia y mi persona queremos manifestarle nuestro sentido pésame por la perdida de José Antonio.
Ha sido un ejemplo para muchos Venezolanos que pudieron encontrar en el un ejemplo de lucha, heroísmo, pasión y amor en el logro de sus objetivos.
Gracias a dios pude tener la oportunidad de conocerlo en una de sus conferencias en unión a su equipo Proyecto Cumbre y nos dejo una esperanza viva de los que es un guerrero hecho por dios!!

ESTOY CONVENCIDO QUE CUALQUIER PALABRA DE ALIENTO NO PODRÁ QUEBRAR EL INMENSO DOLOR DE SU PERDIDA PERO EL ANIMO Y RECUERDO DE AQUELLOS VENEZOLANOS QUE PUDIMOS CONOCERLO SERÁ UN ALICIENTE PARA SU FAMILIA.

CADA VENEZOLANO TIENE SU EVEREST!!
PERO SOLO EL ESFUERZO PERSONAL, LA PASIÓN Y EL AMOR A LA VIDA DEBE ESTAR PRESENTE PARA SU CONQUISTA!!

CON LA SEGURIDAD QUE DIOS LO TIENE EN SUS MANOS!!

JOSÉ DÁVILA Y FAMILIA

1:02 PM  
Anonymous Feroz Zahid said...

I express my deepeset condolence with the family of Jose Antonio Delgado.

May he be rest in peace.

8:26 AM  

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